Say I Do to Pink, but a Pink that isn't too GIRLY

Recently I had the great pleasure of slipping the following piece for the sweetest teenager you'd ever meet!

Her mother wanted her to have a cool hip room for her to hangout

in with her friends

and this chair was

the piece de resistance!

They wanted something bold yet feminine.

I think we nailed it!

What are your thoughts?

My favorite part of this whole project was

the box pleated grosgrain ribbon.

Who says you have to use pipping on all your cushions ...

Slip Cover Craziness #6

Okay is everybody ready to get rid of the channel back and make it smooth and a bit more contemporary?

Here goes ....

I used some polyfil from old pillows to "Stuff" the channels

After you have "stuffed" the channels it is time to cover the front

I placed a piece of the batting over the front of the chair.

You know the kind you would use to make a baby quilt.

100% cotton

I then began to stretch and pin the cotton batting in place

Using a heavier thread I then hand sewed the batting in place

This will help keep it from shifting under the slipcover.

How are your pieces coming along?

I would love to feature a my readers slips.

Leave me a comment with a link to your post so I can show off your talents!

Slipcover Craziness #5

It has been a while since I last posted about this topic.

This week we are going to finish up the back of the chair

and add our cording.

After positioning the back panel on my chair

I realized there was too much excess fabric at the base of the chair

So off I went to grab my seam ripper

It is for this reason that I will work on a section and then walk away from it

It is amazing how when you return to a project after a short break

how you notice all the imperfections

So I refit the back

Don't you love all my threads from where I seam ripped!

The problem was the chair is much narrower at the base

This means to keep my pattern match I am forced to go off grain

Since i am working with a large all over pattern that is not a stripe or a plaid

I felt it was okay to do this and most people would not notice it

The major reason I wanted the back to have a snug fit and perfect pattern match

at the side seems from top to bottom is the back of this piece

is the first thing you see when you walk in the house!

By keeping the back snug it won't look so country or like your grandmothers slipcovers

Keeping the pattern match from top to bottom ensures

that the piece will have that custom designer look I am going for

After I adjusted the side seams

I pulled and pinned the sides to the front edge of the chair.

I was now ready to cut back the excess fabric on the side panels

When cutting be sure to cut at least an 1" away

from where you will join to the arm and center front panels

This allows you some wiggle room if you need to adjust the piece later on

It is time to add the cording

Pin the cording so it lines up with the edge of your piece

Remember you will be sandwiching it between panels

 The cording acts like a transition from the back to the front

It also helps to draw the eye around the piece

Try to create a smooth line with the cording as you go

This will pay off big time when we tackle the front.

Well, that's all for this week!

I

Slipcover Craziness Week #4

I am taking a short break from working on the chair.

Not by choice, I was a bit forced into the situation.

See my machine BROKE ... BIG TIME BREAK

Last week.

I'm talking needle bending kinda breakage.

I'm so bummed my machine no can longer sew a seam :(

I did score a back up machine, but it's not the same.

So while I wait for my baby to get back from the repair shop

Here is a little inspiration

Appliqued Slipcover for a Birthday party

Can You Believe This IS A No Sew Slipcover!

Look What It's A Cover Up Can Do With IKEA Furniture

I don't know about you but I am dying to get back to slippin'

Now if I only had my machine :(

Slip Cover Craziness Week #3

How to Make Cording

Okay now that you have your back all pieced together 

We are ready to start with the cording!

When slipping a piece of furniture you have a few options:

1. Finish your piece with out cording

2. Using the same fabric to cover the chair/sofa to make your cording

3. Use a contrasting fabric to make the cording

For this project I am going to use a contrasting cording.

I love to use a contrasting cording when the piece has really unique lines.

The contrast cording will help play up the shape of the chair.

Cording is created by cutting long strips of fabric on the bias.

Bias is anything cut  t a 45degree angle 

Most sewing rulers have line on them showing the correct angle for bias.

I have seen people fold their fabric all sorts of origami"ish" to get their bias strips 

out of fat quarters.  I seriously am challenged that way and can't seem to figure out 

how they fold their fabric to get the correct cut.

For this reason the way I am showing you is a bit antiquated, but hey it works :)

First I clear a large space on my floor so I can spread out my fabric.

Then using my ruler I lay the 45 line along my selvage

I use fabric chalk, a pencil or even a sharpie marker

to draw my line.  

I slide the ruler up the line I just created and draw.

Keep doing this until your line extends from one selvage side to the other.

I then use my marker to trace another line 1 3/4" below the line I just drew.

Do this repeatedly to create multiple 1 3/4" wide strips to be used for your bias cording.

Many people think you can create cording on the straight grain 

but from my experience it never lays as nice as cording cut on the bias.

Cording comes in various sizes.

Choose the thickness that you feel will most complement your piece.

A thin delicate cording creates a more formal look while 

a heavy one will give your piece a more casual feel.

I personally love the twisted cord in size 3/16"

Now that you have all your strips cut and have chosen your cording size 

we are ready to head over to your machine and sew :)

Join your strips as shown above with 1/4" seam allowence.

You will want to set your the stitch length on your machine slightly smaller than normal.

This will help strengthen your seams.

Set your machine to a basting stitch,

put on your zipper foot attachment and we are ready to go...

Position the needle so that it creates a stitch line next to your cording.

At this point you do not need to sew right up against the cording just close 

enough to secure the fabric around it.

Next week we will create a front panel and attach it to our back panel with the cording we just made.

If you missed last week here is the link

Slip Cover Craziness Week #2

Slip Cover Craziness Week #2

Okay is everyone ready  ...  I am!

First grab your measuring tape and measure the center back section

along both the top and bottom.

Using a straight pin, preferably one with a big brightly colored head,

mark your center point top and bottom on the chair.

Now cut a piece that is about 6" longer then the length of the chairs center back.

Fold the piece in half length wise and finger press both top and bottom.

You will use this crease mark as a guide to help position your fabric on to the chair.

Pin the center back panel to the chair making sure the crease line you just created 

lines up with the pins you positioned earlier to mark center back points.

Working from top to bottom and from the center back to side seams 

smooth out your fabric and pin along your side seams.

Be sure to place your pins right along the edge of your chairs side seams.

You will use this as a guide for adding your side panels.

Now that you have you center back panel positioned the way you 

want it, take your scissors and cut along the center crease you created 

stopping about 1" from your chair.  

You have just created "notches" that you will refer to later 

to help make sure that the center back panel stays centered as you work.

Now is the time to trim off any excess along your pin line at the side seams.

I like to cut about 2" from my pin line 

 this leaves me plenty of fabric to play with later if problems arise.

Okay we are ready to work on the side panels ...

Cut two pieces as long as your center back seam making sure that

your pattern starts and finishes at the same point as it does on your center back panel.

Now you are ready to start pinning the side.

I generally figure out where the pattern will line up along the top of your piece

and put a pin there.  Pin this section loosely (if that make sense) as it is just a marker

and will most likely be altered later.

If you pin it to tight you run the risk of snagging your fabric while you work.

Starting from the bottom of your chair, and when I say bottom

I mean the bottom of the upholstery not the bottom of the chair legs.

fold under the side panel so the pattern will line up

along the pin line you created while fitting the back section.

gently fold, pin and smooth your fabric as you work your way up the piece.

The shape of your chair and the size, shape / repeat of your print

will determine how far up they will match.

You don't want to force the match as this will cause your fabric to be off grain.

This could cause puckering and pulling of the fabric later on.

Now that you have pinned one side it is time to sew!

Gently remove your fabric from the chair making sure

to remove any pins that secure the fabric to the chair itself.

Make sure the pins you placed along your side seam are secure.

Lay your piece flat on the floor and finger press your seam.

I'm a big fan of finger pressing ... lol!

Gently pull the side panel over so it lays on top of the back panel

As you work your way up the seam pull the pins out partially.

After you partially pull out a pin push it back in so it pierces

through the finger pressed seam and secures your panel.

I apologize the pic below isn't the best quality

but it shows how the pins mark your match point along the finger pressed seam.

(My finger pressed seam falls in the bottom middle section of the photo)

It is time to take your fabric over to your sewing machine and start sewing!

I like to use a slightly smaller stitch length then normal.

This will help keep your seams from bursting under all the everyday stresses your chair will go through.

Run your stitch line in the crease you created when you finger pressed.

Being sure not to sew over any pins.

Try to pull your pins out before they get to close to your presser foot.

Place your needle in the downward position when you lit your presser foot to remove your pin.

If all goes well this is what your finished side seam should look like.

Next week we will work on the cording.

Click here if  you missed last week 

Please me any questions you might have.  

I hope I have written this clearly enough for everyone to follow.

Also email me me pics of your work in progress I would love to share it with everyone.

Happy slippin!

Slip Cover Craziness week #1 Update

Okay here we go is everybody ready?

This week we are going to discuss how to measure for fabric.

I know it doesn't sound too exciting but,

imagine you are 90% completed

and you run out of fabric!

To make matters worse the store no longer carries you fabric...

So to avoid this we are going to learn how to measure today.

Woven cotton fabrics are the easiest to slip with.

I have slipped with heavy chenille, wools and even a satin backed fabric.

Each fabric posed its' own challenges.

If this is your first time slipping I'd say start off with a sturdy woven cotton

Try to avoid fabrics that have a nap or a print that is directional.

This will cause you to use more fabric thus increasing the price of the project.

The fabric I have chosen has a 17" horizontal repeat and a 18" vertical

These numbers will also factor into the amount of fabric I need to slip my chair.

Whew are you ready?

Here We  Go ...

Lets start by measuring the back of your chair

You want to measure from the highest point of the chair (typically center back) to the bottom.

My chair measures in at 37" high by 26" wide. 

To get the width measurement I measured between the two seams at the widest point

 that run vertically down the back.

going by this I will need 1 1/2 yards.

remember the 18" vertical repeat I have included that number to the length.

This way I am sure to be able to match up my print.

On to the sides ...

First Measure the height again going starting from the highest point and measuring to the base.

Next measure your width from the furthest outer most edge to the seam in the back.

My chair is 37" high by 24" wide.

I add my horizontal repeat to the width and this

tells me I need a piece 41" wide by a 1 1/2 yards long.

Since, the side measures the same as the back so repeat yardage length.

Most home dec fabrics are 54" wide so our width measurement

won't allow us to split the piece down the middle.

We will need 1 1/2 yards per side or 3 yards total.

Are you still with me?

The front

Again measure the width at the widest point.

Second measure from the highest point to the seat portion.

My chair is 44" wide by 35" tall

I need 1 yard

The seat is measured from the widest point both directions.

I got 24" wide by 23" deep

I will need to add the vertical repeat to the depth measurement

to allow for match at the the front back seam.

This means I will need 1 1/4 yards

I am not going to account for the inner arm section

as the may be cut from the waste along the side back pieces.

After doing all my measurements I came up with

6 3/4 yards

I will round up to 7 just because it gives me a bit extra.

Well here she is...

How do you think she'll look?

Now these measurements are specific to my chair. 

You may need to take into account your inner arm measurements

for instance, if they are high and wide or depending on the shape of your sides.

Again these are just general guidelines and should be adjusted to your

fabric repeat and chair size.